Try it on your raw files or 16 bit tiffs instead of jpegs which only have limited wiggle room. You can try local adjustments to change the sky to your liking. Although the magic effect can be applied to both JPEG and RAW, the company claims the results are more precise with RAW. And while the foregrounds in your photos look Kodachrome-ish, the sky does not and it probably would not have been “better” on Kodachrome itself because of all the dust. DxO claims its colour renditions are based on the analysis and calibration of the surface sensitivity of each of the films, from which DxO Labs extracted the specific RGB curves. This means that, under optimal circumstances, you can get a look that is close to what you’d have gotten if you had shot the scene on the respective film. that lakes would look like blue velvet instead of water because reflections had been canceled by the polarizer…ĭxO film emulations do like they say: emulate. Their photos had all the bang! colors, specially when a polarizer was used. I also remember what some of my colleagues had shot on Kodachrome in other locations. I also noticed that the photos showed the haze from all the dust in the dry, windy air, not only in the sky as in your photos, but also in the canyon. The prints were less crisp and saturated than I remembered of what I had seen and the sky was not as blue too. I remember the deception I had when I got the 8x10 prints from the lab. Had a look at the images you uploaded and found that they resemble the ones I took on Kodacolor in the late 1970s.
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